These are fairly simple patterns. If you can make the dolls who wear these, then the clothes are not difficult at all. And like I mentioned before, these clothes are interchangeable between the different dolls listed above.

Note: The pants might not fit all dolls because of their tails, but you can either do the dolls without tails, or modify the patterns slightly to make little tail holes in the pants. This is what you can do in that case: When you get to the round at the height of the tail, mark the middle of the back, and instead of SCs, chain two stitches more than the tail is wide, and skip the amount of SCs, then rejoin the round and continue working SCs as usual. And in the next round, you work SCs into the chain you just created the round before. You now have a hole for the tail.

MATERIALS

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If you use the same yarn weight to make these clothes as the dolls, then they will fit perfectly. I know Pica Pau recommends 8/6, but I have always been a user of 8/4. And for that I recommend a 2.0 mm hook throughout - but do use the same size hook as you have while working on the rest of the collection, so it will all fit together!

You will also need the basic tools for any crochet work: a needle for sewing in the ends, scissors, possibly a stitch counter (if that's your thing), and stitch markers.
Use any colours you like! You could even make patterned clothes if you want/can, like I have done with the overalls.

ABBREVIATIONS

 

CH : Chain
SC : Single crochet
HDC : Half double crochet
INC : Increase
BLO : Back loops only
* * : Repeat the instructions inside these markings x number of times
[ ] : Total number of stitches at the end of the current round.

 

NOTE: All patterns are worked in the round unless stated otherwise.

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PANTS [image A]

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We begin with the ribbing around the waist, which is made in turning rows. Leave a length of yarn at the start to sew together the waistband with at the end.

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Row 1: CH 5, turn.
Row 2-39: BLO: SC 4, CH 1, turn.
Row 40: BLO: SC 4.

Turn the work 90 degrees and join the last stitch with the first of row 1 with a SC, to make a circle.
We will now start to work on the length of the pants.

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Round 1: SC 39 more around the length of the ribbing. [40]
Round 2: *SC 3, INC* repeat 10 times. [50]

Note: If you're doing a hole for the tail, it should be somewhere around round 3-4. See the pattern introduction for more info.

Round 3-7: SC 50. [50]

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Now it's time to make the crotch. We create this the same way as for the dolls; by saving 2 stitches in the middle of the back, and 2 stitches in the middle of the front, that we later sew together. So take a couple of stitch markers, and divide your current work in half, front to back, to make pant-legs. Count the stitches to make sure they are both the same size: you should have 2 saved in the back, 21 for the first leg, 2 saved in the front, and another 21 for the second leg. If you need to work more stitches to place the hook past the two “crotch-marks”, that's okay, because we do the legs first.

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We start with the left leg. You should have just passed the back of the crotch and have the hook in the first stitch after that.

Round 1: SC 23. Join the last worked stitch to the first of the pant-leg creating a smaller circle. [23]

 

Now, I have a few options for you:

• If you want to make a cute pair of shorts: stop at round 6.

• If you want straight cut pants: repeat round 1 through 20 without change.

• Give the pants a slight flare cut, like I have, and continue as follows:

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Round 2-7: SC 23. [23]
Round 8: *SC 10, INC* repeat x2. [24]
Round 9-10: SC 24
Round 11: *SC 7, INC* repeat x3. [27]
Round 12-20: SC 27. [27]
Slip stitch in next stitch, and finish off. Cut off the yarn and sew in the end.

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For the second leg, insert the hook into the first stitch of the other leg, ignoring the marked crotch-stitches. Leave a length of yarn at the start to use later when sewing the crotch shut.

Round 1: CH 1, SC 23 and join the last stitch with the first of this leg. Repeat the pattern for the first leg, round 2-20.

 

Now, you can finally sew together the ribbing’s first and last row with the strand of yarn from the beginning of the work you should have left when starting. Then, pick up the yarn from the beginning of the second leg to sew together the front and back of the crotch, and weave in the end together with any others you may have. And the pants are done!

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SKIRT [image B]

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Again, we start with the ribbing, exactly the same way as for the pants, but this is slightly wider.

Row 1: CH 8, turn.
Row 2-39: BLO: SC 7, CH 1, turn.
Row 40: BLO: SC 7. 

Turn the work 90 degrees and join the last stitch with the first of row 1 with a SC, to make a circle.
We will now start to work on the length of the skirt.

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Round 1: SC 39 more around the length of the ribbing. [40]
Round 2: *HDC 3, INC* repeat x10. [50]
Round 3: HDC 50. [50]
Round 4: *HDC 4, INC* repeat x10. [60]
Round 5: *HDC 5, INC* repeat x10. [70]
Round 6: *HDC 6, INC* repeat x10. [80]
To even out the edge, SC in the next stitch, then go on to the final round.
Round 7: Slip stitch throughout the round. [80]
Finish off, cut yarn and weave in the end.

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Now, you can finally sew together the ribbing’s first and last row with the strand of yarn from the beginning of the work you should have left when starting. And the skirt is done!

 

 

OVERALLS [image C]

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For these we don't need ribbing, so we begin by doing a straight chain, that becomes the waistline, and work down from there, before we make the chest piece and suspenders.

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Round 1: CH 40. Join the last stitch to the first with a SC to make a circle. We will be working in the round.
Round 2-4: SC 40. [40]
Round 5: *SC 3, INC* repeat x10. [50]
Round 6-8: SC 50. [50]

Note: If you're doing a hole for the tail, it should be somewhere around round 7-8. See the pattern introduction for more info.

If you don't want to change colour, just continue working with the first colour until the end. Otherwise, it's time to make the colour-change pattern:

Round 9-10: SC 50, but do every other stitch in the first colour, and every other in a second colour of your choice.
Round 11: Switch to the second colour as your new main. SC 50. [50]
Round 12: SC 50. [50]

 

Time to make the crotch. First, make sure that the first stitch of the first round is in the very middle of your work. Then you can follow the same instructions as the pants from this point forward, but stop at round 6 of the legs, but remember to include the sewing of the crotch part.

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As we go to start on the chest flap, you will turn the back into the front (they should look the same after all), and with this next step, you will make the beginning of the work look smoother. Because, where you joined the first round into a circle, you probably have a staggered line, because we're working in the round. We will now blend that into the chest flap!
We will now work in turning rows.

Row 1: Insert the hook into the very first stitch of the waistband with the front facing you, and begin with a SC in the first stitch on the lower edge to the left. Work 5 SC more, CH 1 and turn.
Row 2-5: SC 12, CH 1, turn. (The edge should now be smooth, except for where we're now making the chest flap).
Row 6: SC 12. [12]

 

Now it's time to do the suspenders. Do not cut off the yarn.

Find the middle of the back and count 2 stitches on either side: this will be where we attach the suspenders.
Continue where you left on the chest and CH 14, and join that to the back of the waistband where you just marked the two spots with a slip stitch. Continue with 4 slip stitches along the waist band to the next marker, and CH 14. Now attach the second strap to the other corner of the chest flap with another slip stitch. Continue working slip stitches across the top of the flap (x10), down the first strap (x14), across the small of the back (x4) and up the second strap again (x14). Finish off with a last slip stitch into the top of the chest flap, and weave in the yarn ends, and you're done!

 

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HEADBAND 1 [image D]

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This is a length of ribbing that's been joined into a circle. Very simple.

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Row 1: CH 9, turn. Begin every new row in the 3rd stitch from the hook.
Row 2-35: BLO: HDC 7, CH 2, turn.
Row 36: BLO: HDC 7. Finish off and leave a length of yarn to sew the last and first rows together to make a circle. Weave in the end, and you're done.

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HEADBAND 2 [image E]

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This is the simplest of this collection. It's just a basic ring with a small flower applique. We work this in the round.

 

Round 1: CH 60. Join the last stitch with the first to make a circle.
Round 2: SC 60. [60]
Finish off and weave in the ends.

 

Now for the little flower.

Start by making a magic ring. We will make all the stitches into this.
*CH 2, DC 1, CH 2, slip stitch into the ring* repeat x5.
Pull the ring closed and you have a small flower. Leave a bit of yarn to attach the flower to the headband. I usually attach it where the circle is joined to hide it.
Weave in the ends, and you're done!